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| June 2009 - Wheel Bearing & New Amplifier |
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- If you live in the State of Washington you might see me at the 2009 Leavenworth Drive. There should be 300+ cars there so it should be awesome. This will be my third year going. I'll post some pictures after the drive. See you there!
- While driving to Seattle one day my friend Erik pointed out that it sounded like I had a bad rear wheel bearing. I haven't had the best luck with wheel bearings. I think I replace all wheel bearings at least once on my previous 1997 VW Jetta VR6 . After taking it to Erik's shop it was the rear driver side bearing that was bad so I got that replaced.
- Had my car realigned at FireStone since I have the lifetime Alignment service and the car needed it after the wheel bearing replacement.
Back in May I thought my old subwoofers were bad so I replaced them with a Alpine Type-R Series SWR-1242D. I don't drive the car a lot since my wife uses it for work, so I didn't notice that the new sub was sounding bad just like the old one. So I look at the amp while I'm got it running and notice the "clipping" light is flashing on hard beats. Typically clipping is cause by a poor grounding point. I did move the cable a few weeks past so I figure that might be the case. For testing purposes I ran a ground directly from the amp to the battery and still the clipping problem was still there. At this point my old Infinity 600 watt rms mono amp has had a good 5 year life so it's likely time to just replace it. Now I'm on a mission to get a good amp at the lowest possible price.
The Kenwood Excelon Class D Mono Power Digital Amplifier - XR-1S seem to be a nice little amp... because it's small in size but still matches the power I was running with my old Infinity amp. After going back and forth with 4 or 5 different companies I got one (ABT Electronics) offering to sell a new one to me for $280 down from $500.
A week later I got the new amp installed it and had a little more power but still had the clipping problem. I tried re-wiring the sub to 2ohms and got so more power out of it but still clipping. At this point I'm getting pretty frustrated. My last thoughts are that the RCA cables are bad. These were a nice pair of 4 channel JL Audio RCA cables so it seemed unlikely. Since there were 4 channels I tried switching the cables around. I took out the my radio deck and found my problem. One of my RCA cables was unconnected. The amp was clipping because I had the gained turned all the way up so it was like trying to run a pressure washer but the presume washer was working too hard because not enough water was getting to it to be pressurized. I reconnected all of the RCA cables and sure enough fixed the problem. I thought about sending back the amp since I didn't need it, but I did like the small size of it so I kept it. So in the end I bought a new sub and amp for almost nothing. I basically just gain some space in my trunk which is still ok. Anyway if you got audio problems check all of your wiring first. Take it from someone that learned the expensive way. |
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| May 2009 - New Rotors, Pad, Tranny/Diff Fluid Flush, Audio Upgrades |
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- A few month back I had my rotors resurface but that put them below spec width so new rotors were going to be need. I've tried slotted and drilled rotors in the past and honestly they are are waste of money. I did notice any difference in braking other then they were louder. So as always I went to Erik shop ipmautoservice.com and had him replace the front and rear rotors and pads with oem stuff.. so nothing fancy.
While getting the brakes replaced on I had them do a tranny and rear diff fluid flush with Redline Fluid. I know Audi says the fluid should last the life time of the car but that really is a risk I don't want to take. I always do a fluid flush every two years or 20,000 miles just to be safe. The cost of fluid is much cheaper then replacing part in the diff or tranny because of poor lubercation. That's just my opinion.
- I started noticing that my subwoofers sounded like they were failing. I figured since my wife and I are expect around first child this toward the end of October that it might be a good time to change my setup. So my current setup was with a subwoofer box that took up about 40% of my trunk was not going to work all the furture baby stuff. I stopped by CarToys since they were having the Memorial Day sale and picked up a Alpine Type-R Series SWR-1242D which came with a free box. Now I gain a good 20% back in trunk space.
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| February 2009 - Cylinder 6 Misfire, Fault Code P0306 |
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- I discovered a misfire on #6 cylinder. I went to my friends shop ipmautoservice.com and pick up 5 new coilpacks to replace the last 5 stock ones. After completing the install the misfire was still there. So I got a new fuel injector installed but the misfire came back after a few days of driving. I took the spark plug out and used some Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner to clean off any crap on the spark plug. Installed the spark plug back into the car, took it for a drive but again after 10mins of driving the misfire was back.
- A week later I took the spark plug from cylinder #6 and swapped it with cylinder #5. Cleared the P0306 code and took it for a drive. Few mins later the same code came back up. If the spark plug was bad on cylinder #6 then it should have caused a new misfire code on cylinder #5 after the swap. Have tried swapping the coilpacks around and still the misfire is around. So at this point I'm a little lost.
Another week pass and I read on a forum (NWQuattro.com) that some Iridium spark plugs are known for having issues. I figure, I might as well give it a try so I went to Napa and got a set of 6 OEM NGK PFR6Q spark plugs. Originally following the instruction of several people within online forums I gaped the plugs to .028 inches. I went out for a long drive and all was good for about 60 miles but then the misfire was back... just not as bad. Called my friend up in at ipmautoservice.com and he said to gap them between .016 - .024 inches. I gaped them to .022 and went for a 25 mile drive and all seems good now. I changed my APR ECU program from the 91 oct. to the 93 oct which would increase the timing and that would increase the chance for misfire on a malfunctioning spark plug... in theory. So far there is no misfire but I'm going to give it a good 100 miles before I completely relax. I did check the gap on my still relatively new Denso Iridium Spark Plugs and they ranged from .035 - .045 inches which is way too big... likely that was my problem. It was pretty stupid of me not to check them. I bet if I re-gap them and they will work fine. *Word of advise always check your spark plug gap.
- I want to let everyone know that I've setup a new page on this site called **Your Rides**. I think it's only fair that I allow you the visitor post some pictures and information about your car. Feel free to spot light your car if you want.
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January 2009 - HID Upgrade, Stress Crack on Two Rims (Wheels)
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- Installed a
DDM 55 Watt 4500K Slim Ballast HID Kit to replace the OEM 35 watt HID system. It took me about 2.5 hours. The hardest thing was getting the OEM ballast out. They have very weird Hex screws... likely some security feature or something. The 55 watt HID kit aren't as bright as I wished they would be but they are still brighter. This kit provides more of true white color rather then a faded blue like my old OEM HID bulbs.
- Also got a set of 3000k H7 type bulbs from DDM Tuning which I will install in the fogs. My plan was to us the old OEM Ballast, but that plan was going to require too much wiring for my liking. So when funds are available I will get another set of DDM slim ballast HID kit, but it will be the 35watt instead of the current 55 watt.
- Finished installing Lamin-x Covers on my fog lights. I went with the gun-smoke tint which makes the fog light fade in with the surrounding lower bumper grill. No changes in light output that I can notice.
- Well I have discovered that I have two cracked rims. The front driver side rim and the the full sized spare rim. I went to Achtuning and got a new rim for $200. As for right now I will just have to run around with no spare until I can get another rim.
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December 2008 - Audio Upgrade
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After installing a aftermarket stereo head unit -my radio recpetion was not like it was with the stock system. I tried all kinds of home-made antennas and nothing ever worked since the factory one did not work either. I was extremely frustrating considering the main reason for switching over was to have HD radio which worked but not that great. After reading many reviews I final went onto eBay and bought a Dakota Digital AM/FM Hidden Antenna for $35. Many people claimed it to be the best for people that don't want a exterior antenna like motorcyclist and custom cars. I was surprised to find that not only did this antenna do as it promised, but I also got AM radio which is something the stock didn't do that well either. Anyway, it works great and highly recommend it if you are switching over to a aftermarket sterep head unit to use a iPod or HD features.
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November 2008 - Interior Light Upgrades
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The APR Boost Gauge uses a standard incandescent 194 wedge bulb which does not continue the overal theme of the red interior lights. I replaced the incandescent light bulb with a red 194 wedge LED bulb from Superbrightleds.com. I also put the same red LED bulbs in the foot lights under the dash for the driver and passenger seats. Gives the floor nice red glow.
I also replace the 4 BA9 map light bulbs (2 front and 2 back) to a cool white LED bulb that I also got from Superbrightleds.com. This matches the color the current dome lights as show in February 2008 post below. They are surprising bright but not blinding when you are driving.
Lastly, I replaced the 4 incandescent 194 wedge bulbs in the 3rd brake light in the rear window with red LEDs from Superbrightleds.com. For one, the LEDs are brighter and activate faster then incandescent bulbs allowing drivers behind me to see that I am braking a split second faster. Every seconds counts...
- After replacing the 3rd brake light I ran into a problem with the bulb out warning displaying in the dash. After doing some research and reading suggestions from many online forums I order a load resister from superbrightleds.com and got the bulb out warning gone in a few mins.

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October 2008 - Misfire & APR Boost Gauge
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My family got me a APR Boost gauge for my birthday from Achtuning. I got it install but I replace the bulb with a red LED bulb to match the stock intior lighting. Install was not too bad, it would have been easy if a instruction were included in the kit.
- After putting a good amount of effort keeping my car all maintained I'm running into my first problem. With my APR chip enabled at wide open throttle my car will buck and hesitate between the RPM of 3500-4000 and then run fine afterwards. I have discovered a misfire on cylinder 1. I put in a new coil pack and all bucking is gone. I've been told when one coil pack dies the rest are likely soon to follow in the next 6 months. So I'll start saving up to get 5 replacements.
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August 2008 - RS4 Clutch & OEM Flywheel Installed
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- I finally got my RS4 Clutch kit installed at IPM Auto Services in Redmond, WA.
- Since the clutch install required the entire exhaust to be removed I had the catalytic converters cleared to create a less restrictive exhaust flow. Yes I know it's bad for the environment so in the future I plan on get high flow down-pipe, catalytic converters, and exhaust. Nothing but smiles so far!
- Also I replace the coolant (G12+) and a oil / oil filter change.
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July 2008 - OEM Fuel Filter Installed
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- New Fuel Filter Installed. Took a good 2 hours to complete the install.

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June 2008 - APR Bi-Pipe, Spark Plugs, RS4 Clutch
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- UPS stopped by today and dropped off several sweet things from ECS Tuning:
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(APR Bi Pipe for a B5 Audi S4) | Installed the APR Bi-Pipe Kit. Pretty easy installed but just take a lot of time to get everything moved out of the way and old parts taken off. After taking the car for the test drive it sure seems like I must have had a leak in the old throttle body boot. Turbos seem to spool up fast and my RPM's do not dip at 3500 down to 3000 when at WOT (wide open throttle). I always thought the RPM dip was because of a slipping clutch but that might not be the case any more. So the RS4 Clutch install might be put off for a month or two.
- Just installed 6 new Denso Iridium Spark Plugs. The install was not to bad. Took me a little while to figure how to get the the left and right coilpack closest to the front of the car off. Finally figured out with the help of my wife that a silver intake piping could be remove with a single bolt removed from either side. After that I was in and out of the garage within a hour. The old NGK plugs actually didn't look that bad, but I do have to say that it seem like my engine revs a little faster and smooth with the new plugs installed. With the bipipe, spark plugs, and air filter, my B5 Audi S4 is feeling very strong right now. We will see how the MPG has change why I take a little trip this coming forth of July weekend.
- **Update** went on a 300 mile round trip averaging 28.5 miles per gallon. Not bad for a 300+ hp car.
I was shopping around Joe's picked up something that I have fell in love called Meguiar's NXT Generation All Metal Polysh. Honestly I've never used metal polish before but this stuff rocks! First thing I went to town on was the stock exhaust tips on the S4 and I must stay the exhaust tips look like new now. I even polished the metal trim around the windows and all I can say is wow. I seriously have to recommend for anyone wanting to clean any metal on there car or anywhere you need this stuff. I polished my wedding ring and it look like new... no joke. Anyway just thought I would let all of you know.
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May 2008 - New Tires, H&R Wheel Spacers
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March 2008 - Wax and Polish
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- Gave the S4 it's first full detailing (waxing)... Looks awesome!
- I tried to do the clear corner headlight modification. Got the headlight out but just did not have the right tool to remove the orange reflectors. Headlamps are still looking stock as of now.
- After a day playing around in a snow covered parking lot I now know for sure that I am needing a new clutch. Time to upgrade to a Audi RS4 Clutch kit .
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February 2008 - Interior LED Lighting, ScanGaugeII
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- Upgraded most but not all of the interior lighting (dome lights) with LED lighting from Superbrightleds.com.
- Installed my ScanGaugeII on top of the steering wheel.

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January 2008 - Intake Porting, CD Changer Removed
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- Modified the stock air intake box by cutting out holes on the passenger side of the box. (aka Air Intake Porting)
- Removed stock CD changer since it was not compatiable with new Apline head unit and was just wasted weight/space.
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December 2007 - APR ECU Software, PIAA Ion Bulbs
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- Stopped by Achtuning to upgrade the ECU. After a hour if no success of re-flashing the ECU we found out my car had already be flashed with the APR software and was just in a "lock out" mode Finally got the APR software unlocked and it only cost $99 compared to $500.... thank you previous owner!
- Changed the Oil and Oil Filter with Mobile 1 0w40
- Installed PIAA Ion Yellow bulbs in the fog lamps.
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November 2007 - Diverter Valves, Car Audio, Rear Fog Lights
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- Purchase this B5 Audi S4 from a local small dealership Dream City Sports Cars .
Removed stock stereo headunit and replace with a Alpine CDA-9885 with HD Radio, iPOD connection, and red light to maintain a stock feel.. all from CrutchField. If you want to get one of these units please use this Referral Code: pcer2-k1e4i-570c5)
- Installed Apline Amp and two MTX Subwoofers within the trunk that I had on my previous MK3 Jetta VR6. Sounds awesome but lost nearly 1/3 of my trunk space... ouch!
- Upgraded the rear fog light to light up for the passenger and driver side.
Upgraded both of my stock diverter valves to stock Audi TT 710N diverter valves, which I got from Achtuning. Seems like it has reduced some turbo lag. Took about 20 mins to install so it for sure a go upgrade to complete.
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